30 August 2007

Samana

August 30, 2007

We just got back yesterday from a wonderful trip to Samana on our moto. We left last Saturday with our friends Renee and Michael from "Jacumba." Instead of boring everyone with a long written account here are a bunch of pictures from the trip. As you can tell from the pictures, Samana is a gorgeous part of the Dominican Republic. It was very humid with rain every day and the land was lush and fertile. Huge mountains, beautiful beaches, small villages.




Baseball: the national past time of the DR. These kids were playing on a cliff overlooking the ocean in Cabrera.




Our hotel in Cabrera. We treated ourselves to a night at a gorgeous hotel on a hill overlooking the ocean. The breakfast was fabulous!


Two happy motorcyclists!




A rice field.


Two local girls hanging out on the beach.


The view from the road on the north coast.


Motorcyle is the most popular form of transportation in the DR and Dominicans find ingenious ways to carry almost anything on their bikes. This guy is on his way to sell shoes; Hans say one guy transporting a queen size mattress! We have friends who claim to have seen a live donkey strapped to the back of a motorcycle and other friends who have seen a full-size fridge!


Cayo Levantado, the original Bacardi Rum island from their first advertisements in 1971. The beach is gorgeous, unfortunately the island has been bought by an all-inclusive resort ($155 pp/night!) and they allocate a spot of sand for the public to be used between 9am and 5pm daily. The atmosphere is like an amusement park with designated eating, drinking and dancing areas. Rather disappointing.



Most tourists and locals arrive to the island by boat and crowd the dock at 5pm when a hotel worker blows a whistle to herd the lower-classes off the island.


Other people prefer to travel via helicopter.


We prefer a powerboat. It's much calmer and you can feel the breeze through your hair and the familiar smell of 2-stroke oil wafting through the air. The bargaining was pretty intense, starting at $2600 pesos for 4 (approx. $80), but we eventually got a roundtrip fare for $1000 for 4.




Norwegian Cruise Lines now visit Samana and have built a "port" for their guests. It stands out like a wart on baby Jesus (has anyone seen Talladega nights?). Unfortunately, the cruise ship passengers disembark at Samana, go straight to the fake village and ignore the rest of the town, thus not providing any income to the local economy. Norwegian Cruise Lines could at least provide some trash removal service.








Playa Rincon is located at the very eastern end of the peninsula, accesible only via dirt roads. We had fun traversing the mountains and driving through puddles which at times were like small lakes.



Playa Rincon...well worth the long, dirty, bumpy motorcyle ride. We were the only tourists there and had the entire 7km beach to ourselves.


Rio Frio, a freshwater river, empties at the northern end of the beach, perfect for rinsing the saltwater off.



Three girls whose parents own small fish shacks near the river. They had fun showing off their jumping skills.

The fish shacks, where we had a great fish, rice & avocado lunch.


The center of a small village in the mountains.


On the way to Playa del Valle, we stopped to hike up the mountains to a waterfall.


pineapple

banana

cocoa

coffee
On the hike up to the waterfall, Natalie, our 12 year old guide, showed us some of the fruits and vegetables growing in her backyard.






The three pictures above are of Playa del Valle, another remote beach on the Samana peninsula. Again, we were almost the only tourists there and there were some fish shacks to get lunch.



oink oink




Las Terrenas, a tourist town on the north coast of the peninsula. The beach was endless and lined with tall coconut palms. It's a great town for an independent beach vacation. There are a few biggish resorts but there are mainly small hotels, apartments and bungalows and a plethora of restaurants and bars. We pigged out at the fabulous french bakery.


Our hotel (tan building in the background) in Las Terrenas; another affordable find, clean and comfortable. The development in Las Terrenas is non-stop and is starting to push locals to the outskirts of town, except for this "house" which appears determined to keep its beachfront view.


Kristen is becoming a motorcyle-driving pro.



A beachfront village on the north coast of the DR.




The road to Luperon, we're almost home and avoiding some nasty thunderstorms.


Cleaning off moto after the trip...it took over an hour to get all the red mud off! Moto was a real champ, no problems except the exhaust is noticeably louder now, a real Dominican moto!

22 August 2007

cold beers all around

August 22, 2007

After two weeks of hard work the fridge is finally finished! It turned out really well and we had a party on Whisper with the crews from "Merengue," "Half Moon," and "Jacumba" to celebrate our success with cold beers, Champagne and cheese. Below are some photos from the past two weeks.


No project is complete until you've spent at least half an hour upside down in the cockpit lockers.


Kristen pulls out the old box and countertop.


Kristen inspects the old insulation.


One inch of styrofoam insulation may be good enough for Swedish summers, but not in the Caribbean. The new box has at least 3-4 inches of two-part polyurethane foam all around, which we hope should provide ample insulation.


Hans epoxies the outside frame of the new box. Funny how almost all boat projects end up as an epoxy workshop.



Dry fitting the new box.




The stainless steel liner suspended inside the box before the foam insulation was poured.



Sanding the lid.


Oooops.... foam out of control



Hans painting the top of the box.



Kristen is all smiles these days



Is it going to fit???



The insulated box without lid in its proper place. You can see the compressor just forward of the box.



Whisper's electrical panel received an update.




The finished fridge with the new countertop

19 August 2007

sneak peek

August 19, 2007

Hurricane Dean passed south of the Dominican Republic last night roughly between 10 PM and 4 AM. We were fine on Whisper and had no problems at all. Since Luperon is on the north coast the hurricane passed well south of us and the mountains blocked the strong winds from traveling further north. It was a little windier than usual throughout the night and it has been raining on and off since yesterday afternoon. A squall came through the harbor around 5:30 last night and a few boats dragged their anchors when the wind gusted up to 55 knots. We were fine on Whisper so Hans dinghied around and helped the boats that were dragging and helped people set second anchors. It seemed that a lot of people in the harbor were not adequately prepared for the possibility of strong winds and many people were setting more anchors after the squall passed. We are going to do a little research in the dinghy to find a different place to anchor for the next storm. We are confident in our ground tackle (anchors and chain) and our methods for using them, so our main concern is all the other boats in the harbor. We're going to try to find a different location for the next storm that is a little less congested.

And without further ado, below is a picture of the fridge! The fridge is turned on and stocked with cheese, bacon, orange juice, champagne and butter! We still have a little more work to do (of course), but it is mostly all finishing work: varnishing and putting everything back together. Stay tuned for a more comprehensive blog posting of the whole process. At this point, I think we've invested about 130 hours of work on our cold drinks!

17 August 2007

Hurricane Dean

August 17, 2007

Hurricane Dean has passed over the islands of Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe this morning and is now en route to Jamaica. Dean is forecast to pass well south of the Dominican Republic so it looks like we'll be just fine. The National Hurricane Center has lots of information on Dean, the link to their website is: http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/index.shtml

Just to be safe, we put out a second anchor this morning, but we'll probably just get winds around 25-30 knots which isn't much stronger than normal here in Luperon.

Hopefully there wasn't too much damage in the Lesser Antilles and Jamaica and the Western Caribbean will fare OK.

08 August 2007

A trip to Santo Domingo

August 7, 2007

It’s been almost a week since Kristen’s 28th birthday, which we spent in Santo Domingo, the historic capital of the Dominican Republic. We went there for three days with our friends Jim and Wendy from s/v Merengue. Unfortunately, Kristen came down with food poisoning after dinner on our first night out and she had to stay in bed on her birthday. Crap! Luckily, we had found a nice little hotel with a corner room, so at least Kristen was able to be sick in style.


Our corner room in the capital.


The view from the hotel room.

Meanwhile, Hans spent the day meandering around town with Jim and Wendy looking at all the historical sites. Santo Domingo was the first big city in the “New World” and there is an old cathedral from the 1500s and lots of nice architecture. The atmosphere in the old colonial district, where we were staying, was great with lots of outdoor cafes and restaurants. We definitely plan on returning to give Kristen a second chance to look around and to enjoy more of what the city has to offer (read: good food!)

Now we are back on Whisper where the starboard galley has been taken apart to make room for a new fridge. We’ve spent the last 6 months longing for refrigeration. Can you imagine life without butter, yogurt, CHEESE, milk, cold water, jam, meat, cold cuts, COLD BEER, etc.? Our dreams are finally about to come true thanks to a friend of a friend, Sara, who will bring the 30 pound compressor with her when she arrives in the DR to visit her boyfriend. Happy hour on Whisper in one week! Thanks to the wonderful, indomitable, generous, magnanimous and generally great person know to the world as Sara.



The beach front in Santo Domingo littered with plastic.


The Ham Museum. Yes, those are hams hanging from the ceiling. Yum!


The old fort in the capital.


taking a break from site-seeing at a cafe in the main square in the Colonial Zone. The Cathedral is in the background.


An old building lit up at night.



The cathedral. Notice the satellite dishes on the roof!